10 Days in the North - Historic, Culture and Landscape
From the circular monasteries dotted about the islands on Lake Tana to the eighth wonder of the world - the rock hewn churches of Lalibela. A tour that will bring to life the historic significance of Ethiopia
Day 1
You will be welcomed by Alligan Travel at Bole International
Airport. We will drive to Bahir Dar via the spectacular Blue Nile
Gorge, stopping for lunch on the way. The drive will take most of
the day and so when we arrive in the late afternoon you will
probably want to relax at your hotel
Day 2
After breakfast we will take a boat on Lake Tana, Ethiopia’s
largest lake and the source of the Blue Nile. The lake has 37
islands, some of which are home to very beautiful traditional
Coptic monasteries. We shall visit some of the monasteries on the
islands and shore by boat. Our local guide will discuss with you
the selection of places to visit.
We could visit Narga Sellassie (Trinity of the Rest) on Dek Island
where tradition says the Arc of the Covenant was kept when Axum was
endangered. You may meet one of the hermit priests who live and
worship in these churches and spend their whole lives on the
islands. Narga Sellassie is also home to many beautiful murals
including one of the Scottish explorers, James Bruce.
Ura Kidane Mehret on the Zegie peninsula is a circular mud and
straw structure with 12 gigantic wooden doors representing each of
the apostles. The 16th-Century house of worship is still used for
services today. Interior walls are covered with 450-year-old cotton
frescoes painted with images from Christian and other religions.
Here you will see St. George slaying the dragon, the birth of
Christ even Mary beating the boy Christ! Kebran Gabriel is a
traditionally circular construction and is decorated by highly
coloured murals – the Devil, serpents, St Paul and a beautiful
image of the Archangel Gabriel. You may also be shown exquisitely
illuminated ancient manuscripts. Only men are allowed in this
monastery so you may opt to leave this one out if you so
choose.Your guide will be able to discuss the origins of many of
these images and you will also learn something of the history of
the church.
After a day spent exploring the churches you can retire to your
hotel and enjoy a leisurely evening meal made from local
produce.
Day 3
Making an early start, we should arrive in Gondar around lunch
time. You will be able to check in to your hotel and have something
to eat before we set off to explore the town. Gondar is sometimes
known as the Camelot of Ethiopia and, like Camelot, it is rich in
art and culture as well as being famous for its many medieval
castles and churches. As there is so much to see, you can discuss
options with your guide.
We would recommend a visit to the Emperor Fasilides’Palace and
bath. Legend tells that the town was chosen by God who instructed
the emperor to build his palace here. Also the palace of Iyasu 1,
whose rule from 1682-1706 is considered one of the city’s greatest
periods. You might be surprised by the European ‘feel’ to some of
the architecture. This was the influence of Portuguese soldiers,
led by Don Christopher Da Gama, who came to Gondar in 1541 to
assist the Christians in the war against the Muslims.
In the late afternoon, you may like to visit an Ethiopian home and
participate in the Coffee Ceremony or wonder around the lively
market. Your guide will then point you in the direction of the Bar
Balageru where you can enjoy a drink of the local honey wine (tej)
or you may prefer to rest at your hotel. You will have a
traditional supper of injera with meat and home grown
vegetables.
Day 4
Today, we drive to Axum past the dramatic Simien Mountains.
Reaching the Limalimo terrain, you will plunge down a 2000 metre
escarpment. This beautiful looping Italian built road provides
memorable views, including a glimpse of the peak of Awaza near Adi
Arkay. We will stop for a picnic lunch near Shire. Crossing the
Tekezze Rive, we will arrive in Axum before dark. We shall check in
to your hotel in time for an evening meal.
Day 5
A full day to visit Axum (Aksum). We will start at the chapel in
the old church compound, where the biblical Ark of Covenant is said
to be kept. It is believed that the Ark contains the Tablets of Law
on which are inscribed the Ten Commandments. It is looked after by
a monk known as the "Keeper of the Ark" who spends his whole life
guarding it and is the only one allowed to see it. He will name the
next ‘Keeper’ on his death bed.
The story is that the Ark was acquired during the reign of Solomon,
when his son Menelik I, also son of the Queen of Sheba, stole it
after a visit to Jerusalem. We will also visit the old church
itself, with its beautiful murals and collection of musical
instruments and the nearby small museum.
You can see the Stelae – the famous obelisks – which once announced
to the world the authority and importance of Axum’s ruling
families. They include King Ezana’s Stele which still stands and is
embraced by the Ethiopian Orthodox church as its centrepiece during
the celebrations of Maryam Zion on 30th November. There are many
other ruins from this ancient civilization that began to rise in
400 BC and remained one of the most powerful kingdoms in the world
for a thousand years.
There will be time for shopping. Axum boasts three markets – the
main market, a basket market and an animal market. It is unlikely
that you will want to make a purchase in the animal market but it
is a worthwhile sight with its camels and donkeys. Market day in
Axum is Saturday.
Overnight at your hotel where you will have a choice of Western or
traditional food.
Day 6 After breakfast, we will take a short drive north from
Axum to view the tombs of Kaleb and Gebre Meskel which were
excavated in the late 19th century and lie side by side under the
ruins of their palace. Halfway up the hill to these subterranean
vaults you can view the trilingual tablet which warns all comers
that if removed the culprit will meet an untimely death and praises
God for his help in defeating Yemeni invaders. A little distance
away lies a hill top monastery and we can all visit the compound to
view the many holy crosses and tomes. Only men are admitted to its
interior but it is worth visiting for the beautiful views and sense
of quiet after the hustle and bustle of Axum.
The Queen of Sheba’s palace, excavated as recently as 1952, is our
next stop. On the other side of the road we will see the small
stelae the largest of which is believed to mark her grave.
We return to Axum, for refreshments – perhaps a wholesome fruit
juice from Nati.
There will be time for browsing the fair selection of handicrafts,
artefacts and souvenirs available from the prolific shops. The
modern Atranos Gallery is also worth a visit.
Returning to your hotel, you can swim if you choose or simply relax
and enjoy an evening meal.
Day 7
Today we will wing our way to Lalibela, taking a morning flight and
arriving in time for lunch.
After our meal, we will start your visit to the north-west cluster
of the underground rock-hewn churches for which the town is famed.
Eleven cruciform churches excavated from ground level downwards
into red volcanic rock.
The town, capital of the dynasty, was named after King Lalibela,
who was believed to be primarily responsible for building the
churches. It is thought that the King may have been trying to build
a new Jerusalem that would be a haven for Ethiopian Christians, far
away from the Muslim marauders The story goes that, finding himself
exiled in Jerusalem, Lalibela promised himself that he would
recreate the holy city. Another version of the story tells that the
churches of Bet Abba Libanos were built by angels. However it came
about, they continue to amaze and delight all comers. After we have
explored these churches your guide will discuss tomorrow’s options
with you when we will visit the churches outside the town. Your
guide will tell you about the churches and plan your route with
you. You will have the choice of using the vehicle, with some
walking, or of riding mules.
Overnight in Lalibela.
Day 8
The day starts early whether you have chosen the vehicle or mule
option. Using the vehicle, you will be able to visit one of the 4
churches near the village of Bilbilla. We recommend Bilbilla
Chirkos - 30km outside of Lalibela– a semi monolithic church
surrounded by trenches (and scaffolding) where we can find ancient
paintings of George and the dragon and beautiful 800 year- old
goatskin books. Sundry beehives provide a holy honey which is
believed to have curative powers.
In the afternoon, you might visit the Nakuta La’ab Monastery, which
is so named after the king who succeeded King Lalibela. It is a
veritable treasure trove of crosses and paintings and you will also
see its illuminated leather Bible. Alternatively, in the afternoon,
you might prefer to visit the Yemrehanna Kristos monastery in its
cave – the ‘wedding cake church’ because it looks like a giant
chocolate cream cake. Apart from its stunning carvings and
decorations, this church is known for hosting the bones of some
11,000 Christian pilgrims who came here to die.
If today you decide on the option of walking or taking a mule ride,
we shall visit the Asheten Mariam Church. This involves an
interesting journey, by mule or on foot, with spectacular views of
the countryside and passing through friendly local villages. Then
in the afternoon you can drive to Nakuta La’ab Monastery with its
treasures as mentioned above.
We shall try to set aside some time so that you can browse in
Lalibela’s small shops and stalls for souvenirs – maybe a Lalibela
cross or some local weaving.
Overnight in Lalibela
Day 9
Today, we will fly back to Addis. After dropping your luggage at
your hotel and freshening up, we will visit some of the many
interesting sites. You can discuss with your guide who will make
suggestions so that you can decide what you would like to be top of
the agenda.
We recommend a visit to Trinity Cathedral, the final resting place
of Emperor Haile Selassie, the Menelik II Mausoleum, which contains
the tombs of the former Emperor Menelik II and his family, and
perhaps some of Addis Ababa’s monuments. These monuments include
the Yeketit 12 at Arat Kilo, which commemorates the thousands of
Addis residents massacred by the occupying Italians in 1937.
We can take a short drive out of the city up into the Entoto Hills,
where there is an excellent viewpoint overlooking Addis Ababa.
Here, you will be able to visit the Entoto Maryam church which was
built by Emperor Menelik in 1876. As well as a museum nearby there
is a magnificent 120 year old eucalyptus tree. You will then be
dropped back at your hotel to be picked up at an agreed time and
escorted to a local restaurant for a farewell dinner. As well as
sampling delicious traditional food - you will also have a chance
to see a display of Ethiopia’s unique music and dancing.
Day 10
Depending on the time of your international flight, we will
continue a tour of Addis. We propose a visit to the National
Museum, whose exhibits includes the remains of the oldest human
ancestor ever found, the world famous Lucy. Then we go to the
bustling Piazza area where you may wish to have a coffee at the
Tomoca cafe. After lunch at the Addis Ababa Restaurant, (one of the
best traditional eateries in the capital) we will drive to Mercato,
one of the largest outdoor markets in Africa. When you are done
browsing and haggling, if you still have shopping to do, we can
take you to see some of the local craftsmen at their work and to
shops where it is possible to get beautiful locally carved gifts
and furniture and other artefacts.
You might like to visit the Boston Day Spa for some massage therapy
before your long cramped flight. The salon offers excellent
facials, manicures and pedicures and they specialise in a sort of
African Turkish bath. Whatever you choose to do on this last day in
Ethiopia, we will be at your disposal and will take you to the
airport in time for your international flight.
We only use local guides, educated within Ethiopia so although
this tour includes two short flights we feel that it is,
nevertheless a responsible choice. We will offer you a chance to
offset the minimal carbon emissions incurred and in all other ways
will protect the environment we visit. We take a non invasive
approach, always removing all signs of our presence and respecting
the environment with its vegetation and wildlife. Travellers may
like to keep a record of animal and bird sightings for ongoing
listing to be published on the website for other travellers –
making a positive contribution to the conservation of the wildlife
in the locality.Throughout your trip you will be staying in hotels
run by local people where you will learn about local environmental,
social and cultural issues. Ethiopia is pledged to be carbon
neutral by 2025. Clients will be made aware of the various projects
in Ethiopia with which Alligan Travel is personally acquainted.
These projects are effecting a positive change to the environment
by their actions; i.e. tree planting, seed distribution,
recycling.